PARIS // To Eat: Crêpes!

I 100% didn't intend this, but as I was writing I realized that these were my first and last crêpes in Paris! 

It's no secret that crêpes are one of the things most associated with France. I couldn't tell you how frequently Parisians eat them, but I can attest to the fact that there are crêpe stands all. over. the. city. And I took full advantage of this. A ham and cheese crêpe served as my dinner when I didn't want to cook, a Nutella crêpe would be mine when I was looking for a dessert, and sometimes I would grab a butter and sugar crêpe when I was feeling peckish.

Crêpes tend to be fairly affordable. As a general rule, if you're paying more than €2.50 for a straight up Nutella crêpe, you're paying more than you should and will be able to find somewhere cheaper. You might not care. I was poor, so I cared.

Moving on. Here is my roundup of the best crêpes in Paris.

Nicest Crêpe Maker... Chocolat Rouge (50 rue Rambuteau 75004)

This is one of the first places I went in Paris. It's around the corner from my school in the Marais. This place wins for nicest crêpe maker because the man got to know us. He waved one morning as I walked by, calling out "Bonjour!" and then never really stopped every morning after that. He was willing to chat either in French or English. After a while he even started to give us discounts. They also sell paninis, drinks, etc, as many crêpe places in Paris do. Plus they have heaters on when it's chilly! It's across the street from the Centre Pompidou.

Cheapest Crêpes... Crêperie Genia (15 Rue de la Harpe 75005)

This place doesn't necessarily have the greatest crêpes I've ever tasted, but if you're on a budget, you can't beat their deal. You get a savory crêpe and a dessert crêpe plus a drink for only €5. It's around the corner from St. Michel metro stop. They prefer that everyone in your group is ordering something there if you're going to take advantage of their decently sized (for Paris!) seating area upstairs.

Coolest Location...Oh! Regalade de la Tour Eiffel. (75007, facing the Eiffel Tower between the tower and the Seine)

This is the only place I was able to find a strawberry and Nutella crêpe, though I'm sure there are others. Because it's facing the tower, it's expensive for a student budget (€7.50 for the crêpe I had), but it's worth it for the experience to eat crêpes in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower.

Great Crêpes after a Night Out... Unknown name (4 rue de l'Ancienne Comedie)

I'm not sure of the name of this place, but I street viewed it on Google Maps (click for link) and it's the place where the man is sticking out his arms. I went here for dinner on my 21st birthday just because I could. It's nothing particularly special, but I mention it because it's in the Odeon area, where there are a lot of bars, so this might be useful to know! There is a seating area upstairs too.

Overall Best Crêpe.... Creparis, located near the Eiffel Tower in the 7th arrondissement. I desperately wished I had lived closer to here because I would have gone all the time! Unfortunately I checked their Facebook page and it looks like they've closed. Which is really sad. If you're going to Paris, research to see if they've reopened, because they were truly delicious.

This is only a handful of the crêpe stands I sampled while I lived in Paris. I'm sure there are other wonderful ones, but these are the ones that stand out in my memory. Wherever you get your crêpe fix, I hope you cherish each and every bite.

STUDY ABROAD // Diary Excerpts

An unedited peek at what my life was like all those months ago!

15th February, 2014

Paris, what a place. Life here is full of good food and crazy metro rides and lots of wine and a million photographs. 6 weeks later it's hard to believe this experience is actually happening, that what I dreamed about is really my life. Do I ever have to go home?

This evening I met up with Cole, Lacye, Sabrina and Aya at Aya's metro stop so we could go to Sacre Coeur. It's at the highest point of the city but somehow we managed to walk the exact opposite way. The area seemed kind of sketchy but miraculously we managed to avoid all creepers all evening. The church is gorgeous. When we'd been there about 15 minutes took a bunch of photos, and then walked inside we went back out and it started to POUR! Like, heavy, heavy rain. No Sacre Coeur at sunset for us! We went back inside and waited until Magda got there. Then we went to the Pink Flamingo, which has a location in the Marais as well. It a little more expensive at this location, but that makes sense. I got a Dante pizza and a Corona.

Being able to drink here seems so... normal. I guess it is better to get used to the culture of it here and then nothing will change. It's just much more relaxed here, and I honestly prefer it this way - it's a casual part of the culture but people don't spend hours talking about it. I guess with my birthday coming up in less than 3 weeks I'll be legal to drink in the States and alcohol won't be much of a thought anymore. Weird.

DUBLIN // To Do: Guinness Storehouse

My dad grew up in Dublin and my mom grew up about an hour south of the city. I've grown up going there to see my family. Because of this, I don't tend to do a lot of sightseeing anymore when I'm there. But bringing my Californian friend to Dublin from Paris seemed like a good opportunity to do a lot of things I'd meant to do for years.

First up was the Guinness Storehouse. The tour begins on the ground level and you work your way up. You first learn about barley, which is one of the fundamental ingredients of Guinness, and about the history of the company, which was started by Arthur Guinness in 1759. Arthur signed a 9,000 year lease with St. James's Gate, which is where the brewery is located. Thus, we'll never see it move to another location in our lifetime!

The tour is quite interactive, with exhibits ranging from old advertisements to the proper way to taste Guinness to pouring your own pint! The highlight is at the end, when you can visit the Gravity Bar, a top floor all-glass bar with 360 degree views of the city. This is where you can redeem your voucher for a free pint, which is included with the ticket price. This tour was something I had wanted to do since I turned 18. I think you can do it if you're younger, but you won't get to try any Guinness, obviously. The whole tour is very reminiscent of Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory - you feel like you're being let in on some pretty cool secrets. It's a self-guided tour so you go at your own pace. There are a few cafes inside, and I recommend eating something before going up to the bar!

Information

St James's Gate Dublin 8, Ireland
Phone: + 353 1 408 4800

The Storehouse is open seven days a week from 9:00 am to 5:30 pm, with the final admission at 5 pm. The most updated information and ticket info can be found here.

PARIS // To See: Eiffel Tower

Growing up, I had an Eiffel Tower poster on my bedroom wall. This carried over to college, where one poster turned into three. I guess it makes sense that I went to Paris after all :)

Seeing the Eiffel Tower in person was incredible. On the first full day in the city, after a lot of struggle to buy metro tickets and navigate our way while avoiding the men who aggressively sell Eiffel Tower trinkets in the vacinity (little did we know we would have to continue this avoidance for five months), we saw the tower in all its majesty. Read more about my first impressions here.

The pictures above represent almost every time I posted the tower on my instagram. At the time I felt like maybe I was aggressively instagramming it, but the sight of it grounded me to where I was and made me realize how lucky I was to be there. In May, it finally got warm enough to have picnics in the grass, an absolute dream of an activity. I didn't climb the tower until my last week there. It was perfect, because I was able to recognize major buildings - a true testament to how much I'd learned. My last night in the city, I went back to the Eiffel Tower, this time to Trocadero, and this time with different friends. We ended up staying over an hour, saying goodbye to each other, to the city, and to its biggest symbol. I miss it every day.

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Ticketing information

The view from the top of the tower is gorgeous, but the Eiffel Tower is the symbol of Paris, why go to the one place you can't see it? On a quick trip to Paris, I recommend visiting Tour Montparnasse instead for an equally cool view - this time with the tower.

PARIS // To Do: Versailles

The Palace of Versailles is well known as a symbol of the absolute monarchy of France and for the role it played in the French Revolution. When the palace was built in the late 1600s, Versailles was far enough out of the hub of Paris to be considered the country. Now, it is a suburb easily accessible from the city. You've never seen opulence like the opulence on display at Versailles - it is absolutely crazy. I can't even imagine how much everything must have cost. Try not to imagine the millions of starving people who were allegedly told to "eat cake" and picture yourself living there instead, otherwise you'll think it's insane. It's one of the coolest places I've ever been because of the history and how much has happened there.

Tips for visiting Versailles:

1. Get there early. As early as possible.

2. Maybe don't make other concrete plans for the day. Give yourself plenty of time for the palace, the gardens, Marie Antoinette's hamlet, etc. 

3. You must, must get some Angelina's hot chocolate (pictured below). The greatest, richest hot chocolate you will ever have.

4. Watch Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette before you go if you're feeling fancy!

Accessing Versailles:
Take RER Line C to Versailles (make sure the train is going to Versailles, some trains don't stop there!)
From the stop, follow the signs (or the crowd!)

Tickets:
18€ for adults
Free for students/under-25s

Hours:
1 April to 31 October
Tuesday to Sunday: 9:00 am to 6:30 pm
*closed Mondays!

1 November to 31 March
Tuesday to Sunday: 9:00 am to 5:30 pm
*closed Mondays!

PARIS // To Do: Palais Garnier

Growing up, I was a huge Phantom of the Opera fan. Actually, that's putting it lightly. I was obsessed. I browsed Phantom-themed message boards, read Phantom fanfiction, watched the movie constantly, and even tried my hand at writing Phantom fanfiction. I woke up every morning to the song "All I Ask of You." My seventh grade birthday present was a family trip to see the play in Providence, Rhode Island. So you could say that when I realized I could visit the place where the story takes place, I was pretty excited.

The Paris Opera House did not disappoint. The Palais Garnier was built between 1861 and 1875 by Charles Garnier, a Parisian architect who won a design competition instituted by Emperor Napoleon III. It was built in the Beaux-Arts style. Statues feature prominently on the facade, as well as many gilded elements. Inside, there are a number of levels, all with different things to see. On one, the grand foyer is reminiscent of the Louvre or the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles. On another, there is an old library filled with books and scripts. Costumes from shows stand in glass cases in the lobbys. For the self-guided tour, visitors enter from the ground level, then go up behind the grand staircase to see it from the front. The auditorium can sit nearly 2,000 people. The famous "Phantom's Box" is marked with a plaque: "Loge du fantôme de l'Opéra." Access to the auditorium is included, but on the day I went it was unfortunately closed. So you'll have to go and tell me what it's like! 

The Palais Garnier isn't necessarily top of the list to see in Paris just because there are so many other things to cram in as well, but if you are there for more than just a few days and/or have an interest in ballet, architecture, or are as obsessed with Phantom of the Opera as I am, you should put it on your list. Or do one better and go see a show! 

Website:
www.operadeparis.fr

Address:
8 Rue Scribe, 75009 Paris, France

Metro: 
Opera (Line 3, Line 7, Line 8)
Chausée d’Antin La Fayette (Line 7, Line 9)

Hours: 
Monday to Friday 9 am to 6 pm
Saturdays 9 am to 1 pm
Closed Sundays

Tickets: 
10€ for adults
6€ for students/under-25s
Free for kids under 10

PARIS // To Do: Père Lachaise

Père Lachaise Cemetery is one of the most interesting places I went while living in Paris. For a city filled with history, beauty and charm, I'd say this is a pretty big statement. Yes, it's a bit strange to think that you might visit a cemetery on vacation or a day off, but Père Lachaise is no ordinary cemetery.

The 110 acre cemetery, situated on a hill at the edge of the city limits, opened in 1804. It is named for the confessor to Louis XIV, Père François de la Chaise, who lived in the 17th century. These days, it's the eternal resting place of legends such as Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, Gertrude Stein, Honore de Balzac, Frederic Chopin, Marcel Proust, and many "ordinary" people too. There are memorials to world wars and to those who died for their country. There are some truly extravagant graves, some very plain. Some look brand new one hundred years later, and others are falling into the ground. It's a really diverse, interesting place.

I visited Père Lachaise on a crisp February afternoon when I found myself with nothing else to do. I went alone, armed with my camera and a desire to take some good photos. I meandered, taking lefts and rights as I wanted to, stepping between graves and among them, imagining the people whose names I was reading. I walked around for so long that I ended up getting kicked out when the cemetery was closing. In my mind, there are two ways you can visit Père Lachaise. The first is to wander and explore at your leisure, assuming you'll find your way out eventually. There are gates around the border, so you'll never really be "stuck". The second is to purchase a map at one of the front gates (or bring a map from home) and seek out the graves you want to see. There are also large maps at various points within the cemetery. It depends on how much time you have and what you want to see.

No matter how you do it, Père Lachaise is well worth a visit if you have an afternoon in Paris. And with views like this, how could you pass up the chance?

Accessing Père Lachaise Cemetery:

Metro line 2 (Phillippe Auguste or Père Lachaise) or line 3 (Père Lachaise or Gambetta)

The Gambetta stop allows you to enter from the top of the hill and follow the cemetery downward; the other two stops require an uphill climb to get to the other end. There's no right or wrong way to do it. The Gambetta stop is closest to Oscar Wilde's grave, but the other stops are closer to the main entrance.

Opening hours:

From November 6-March 15

Monday to Friday: 8:00 am - 5:30 pm

Saturday: 8:30am - 5:30 pm

Sunday and holidays: 9:00 am - 5:30 pm

From March 16-November 5

Monday to Friday: 8:00 am - 6:00 pm

Saturday: 8:30 am - 6:00 pm

Sunday and holidays: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm